Styles of Garden Gates
Go through any gate and there is a sense of expectation. A gate may offer you an enticing glimpse of what’s beyond, or it might be solid to provide privacy and security—and maybe an even greater sense of anticipation, particularly if it is marked “private”! Gates should blend with the surrounding design. Keep the top of the gate at a similar height to the adjacent wall or fence to create a sense of balance; ideally the width of the gate should relate to the path that follows. Gates should suit the style of the entrance. A dramatic, ornamental gate becomes a feature in its own right. Even the door furniture should relate to its surroundings. If you have a large entrance gate across the driveway into the front garden, it’s easier for pedestrians if a side gate is installed as well. Pedestrian gates should be at least 36 inches wide, wider if you have to fit ride-on mowers or other equipment through. Gates for vehicles should be at least 8 feet wide.
Metal gates
Metal gates are usually made of wrought iron. Choose one that is not too flimsy, particularly if it is the garden gate. They may be ornamental or security gates, but the overall impact is formal. An architectural blacksmith can help you with your own design. I once saw a fabulous gate decorated with old garden tools. Whatever you choose, make sure it blends with the surroundings and is not too ostentatious; it should not be noticed for the wrong reasons! Wrought iron combines well with brick walls. Always hang gates so that they are high enough and don’t scrape on the ground when opened. Metal gates need regular painting, particularly on the underside, to ensure they don’t rust. Be bold and paint them in a bright color.
Wooden gates
Wooden gates can be traditional or contemporary, using the same material as the fence to create a sense of uniformity. Keep the design simple. A carpenter can help you realize your dreams!
5 Steps to Concrete a Post in Your Garden
As with laying a path, it is worth hiring a concrete mixer to help you with the job.
1. Dig a hole to the required depth and about 4 inches all around wider than the post. For most situations, a 6-foot fence panel needs a hole 24 inches deep with a 6-inch layer of hardcore in the base; a 4-foot fence needs a hole 18 inches deep, also with 6 inches of hardcore in the base. This is particularly important if the fence is to be covered in climbers or is on an exposed site.
2. Break up the base with a pitchfork and scoop out the soil with a post hole digger or shove holers. These are like a pair of sugar tongs and make picking up the soil easier; they are inexpensive to rent. If you have a lot of posts to erect, you might like to hire a powered auger, but take care when using it and make sure you wear gloves and protective clothing. Augers can be designed for one or two people or attached to a mini tractor.
3. There are two options when securing posts—you can either fill the holes with concrete, using a mix of one part cement to four parts all-in aggregate or fence-post concrete, or you can pack the hole with compacted rubble to about 6 inches below ground level, then top it off with a stiff mix of concrete that is formed in layers to remove the air and smoothed at an angle with a wet bricklayer’s trowel. If you are using concrete, mix it on a board nearby.
4. Add the concrete in layers, tamping it firmly around the post with a timber offcut or similar.
5. Raise and slope the concrete to allow for rainwater run-off, smoothing the surface with a bricklayer’s trowel.
No comments:
Post a Comment