Building different types of Gardens

Cottage Gardening

To discover the beginnings of companion planting one must go back to the cottage gardens, those small, closely planted gardens where vegetables were often mixed with both flowers and herbs.
Cottage gardening had been evolved slowly in Europe over many centuries. It grew up as a matter of necessity; plants were needed to keep the family alive. Initially, gardens, or more likely primitive enclosures near the house, were probably restricted to the growing of herbs for medicinal and culinary purposes; the vegetables were grown in fields that were more like modern smallholdings. As the peasants became stripped of their land they concentrated their vegetable growing into cottage gardens similar to what we think of today when we use that term. In the nineteenth century, many gardens were moved once again outside the confines of land around the house, this time to the allotment or to community garden plots. Here they continued to use techniques they had evolved in the cottage garden and, in many ways, the allotment is still one of the great bastions of cottage gardening, or companion planting, techniques.
The companion planting techniques that were used evolved out of the experience. This experience was handed down from generation to generation. Any changes being made as new methods were discovered by the cottager himself or shared by friends, possibly often the gardener at the “big house.” Many gardening theories of the time were tested at the big house, by its army of gardeners, before they were adopted by the cottager, for his techniques had to be successful or he and his family were likely to go hungry.

While many of the cottages maintained very attractive flower borders, as can be seen in the manywatercolourss done in the nineteenth century, there was very little time to spend on them. Country people were hard working, and spare time was more likely to be spent on the more productive vegetable gardens. The flower gardens, then, had to be easy to maintain and if possible look after themselves for long periods of the year. So gardeners would choose flowers that got along well together, that more or less helped each other create an environment beneficial to all, and that kept the garden in bloom spring, summer, and fall with interest provided by bark and berries in the winter.

The cottage garden has great appeal today because we are attracted to its well-intended informality, to its gentle interplay of so many kinds of plants. It has another great attraction, and that is that it creates a more natural environment in which plants can thrive so, once established, there is less maintenance involved.

Building a Potager Garden

If you only have a small or modest plot and want to grow a wide range of crops in an attractive, kitchen garden style, then I suggest you make your whole garden into a potager. This is where vegetables, fruit, herbs, and flowers are grown together in beautiful and harmonious ways. We have fenced an area of our garden off as a kitchen garden and I often think how well it stands on its own. It contains an attractive wooden greenhouse with a patio by the side of it. The plot is irregular in shape, but divided roughly into four to make crop rotation easier. Paths give access and there is a more or less central water feature.

As well as growing vegetables, we have soft fruit and apple-trees trained as upright cordons. These are great if you want to fit lots of fruit varieties into a small space. Each tree is secured to a stake and fruit grows on short spurs growing from the single main trunk, all controlled by summer pruning. The trees are spaced about 6 feet apart and make good vertical accents. Rows of flowers such as antirrhinums, gladioli, and zinnias are grown for cutting and sunflowers are planted wherever they will fit in. The paths are lined with thyme, sage, lavender, golden feverfew, and other herbs, many raised cheaply from seed.

Winter interest in a kitchen garden needs some work, but if you are clever with your path edgings and use evergreen herbs, there will always be some structure. A surprising number of crops stand during winter, including cabbage related crops (Brussels sprouts, Savoy cabbage, kale, sprouting broccoli) and leeks. Don’t be scared to use props to full advantage, but make them appropriate, such as terra cotta rhubarb and seakale forcers or lantern cloches.

How to Make Plant a Good Garden

Companion planting, the gardening technique that carefully chooses and grows compatible plants with one another for their mutual benefit, is enjoying a revival. It began centuries ago in European cottage gardens but now can be found all over the world - in vegetable gardens, in flower borders, and in gardens that are delightful mixtures of all sorts of edible and ornamental plants growing happily together: vegetables with fruits, flowers, herbs, trees, and shrubs.

Plants can and do help each other keep insect pests in check. A mixture of plants that have different tolerances to diseases lowers the risk that a virus or bacteria will do much damage to a garden.
Although gardeners plant for the future, they do so with a firm eye on the traditions of the past. Tested theories have been handed down from generation to generation. Earlier gardeners learned not only from their own experience but also from that of their families, friends, and from writers.
Seed can be sown directly into the ground or in pots and trays. Basically, the technique is the same in both cases: provide a moist, warm habitat in which the seed can germinate. It should be as free from the competition as possible.

In the open garden, the soil should be dug over, digging in the green manure crop if you planted one, and raking it into a fine tilth. If the intention is to sow in rows, then draw out a shallow drill, about 1/tin (1.25cm) deep for most seed, but as deep as tin (5cm) for large seed such as beans and peas. The drill can be kept straight by the use of a string line stretched between two sticks as a guide. The distance between the rows will depend on the height and spread of the plants.

If the soil is heavy, and cannot be broken down into a fine tilth, or if it is very quick draining, a layer of compost from the compost heap can be put into a slightly deeper drill. This will help the germinating seed find a foothold and keep it moist at this critical stage in its development.

The drill should be watered and the seed thinly was sown. With plants that will need quite a bit of space when they mature, like parsnips, they can be station sown. This means sowing three or four seeds at 6-9in (15-23cm) intervals along the drill (larger intervals should be left for larger-growing varieties). Sowing thus saves time thinning out all the intermediate ones at a later stage.

The seed should then be covered with a thin layer of soil and gently firmed down. Each row should be marked and labelled. Labelling may not be very important, but it is surprising how easy it is to forget the name of the variety by the time harvesting comes around. Knowing the variety grown can be important when deciding whether to grow the same one for the following season.

If planting in blocks, the seed can be sown in short rows and then thinned out to give a random pattern, or the seed can be broadcast over the whole area. The soil should have a fine tilth. The seed should be evenly scattered and then raked well into the top 1/2in (1.25cm) of the soil.

Tray- or pot-sown seed is sown in fine compost made up of equal parts of loam, sharp sand, and leaf mould. The seed is sown on the top and then is covered with a thin layer of the compost. The compost should not be allowed to dry out nor be kept wringing wet.

The majority of seed-sown vegetables are sown in their rows and then left to grow there. The seedlings are thinned out, allowing the strongest to remain at intervals determined by the size of the variety and how big you want them to grow. Parsnips, for example, will grow big if given the space but much smaller if left crammed together, in competition with one another.

After thinning the row should be watered to the firm in any soil that was loosened around the remaining seedlings. Evening time, when the sun is not too hot, is a good time to thin.

Thinning carrots can be troublesome, not only because the shoots are so fine and difficult to separate, but also because it can encourage the carrot root fly. This insect can pick up the scent of the carrot plants when the foliage is bruised during thinning. Onions planted nearby help to mask the smell of the carrots, but on still evenings the onion scent will not spread too far, it is better to sow carrot seed as thinly as possible so very little thinning will be needed.

Some plants, such as cabbages, need transplanting after the seeds have grown into seedlings. Keep them well watered before digging them up and, once dug up, replant them as quickly as possible so that they are kept out of the ground for as short a time as possible. Cabbages, in particular, need a firm planting and the ground around the plant should be firmly tamped down

Gardening for Cut Flowers

Any garden can yield a surprising quantity of material for flower arrangers with regular jobs decorating churches, or supplying material for flower clubs. I am not a skilled flower arranger, but I do make up little posies of what’s in bloom for a small vase on my desk so that I can enjoy the essence of my garden while I am working. Grander arrangements seem to require a framework of shrubby material, fleshed out with fillers of foliage and small flowers, with larger, more sumptuous blooms carefully placed to provide the main impact. The latter can be bought or grown, but gardens come into their own as providers of foliage and fillers. Skeins of ivy, fern fronds, hosta leaves, the long sword-like foliage of New Zealand flax (Phormium) (8-10), and stems from shrubs such as Elaeagnus and Pittosporum are all useful. For pretty posies and tight, domed tussie mussies, Brachyglottisgreyi (9-10), bay, hyssop, rosemary, and lavender are ideal.

For flowering filler material, members of the cow parsley or carrot family come in useful. Fry growing bishop’s flower (Ammi majus) or dill (Anethumgraveolens) as annuals. Spurges, too, are useful, such as caper spurge (Euphorbia lalhyris) (6-9), sun spurge (A. cyparissias) (4-9), and E. oblongata (6-9). Colorful fillers might include biennial sweet rocket (Hesperis matronalis) and tobacco plants (Nicotiana) grown as annuals from spring-sown seed. Don’t be afraid to use the kitchen garden to raise plants specifically for cutting. Try Iceland poppies (Papavcr nudicale) (2-8), dahlias, and rudbeckias.

Tip
I like to lift tulips that have flowered once in my borders and remove them from the equation before they can spoil next season’s color combinations. Give them a good six weeks in leaf before lifting and drying the bulbs off. Replant in late autumn, about 5 inches apart into rows in rich soil. They will then yield excellent cut flowers the following spring.



Gardening on Clay and Sandy Soil



Tips for Gardening on Clay

Individual clay particles are so small they are visible only under a microscope and clay soil is made up of more than 25 per cent of them. Mixed with water, they can be sticky and cement-like. Where there are less than 8 per cent clay particles, yet the soil is still heavy, there could be silt mixed with the clay. Silt compacts easily but is less sticky. Tiny particles mean tiny pores and a clay or silt soil is less well aerated and dries much more slowly than sandy soil. Although sticky clay soils can drive you mad when they bake hard in summer and are too wet to work during winter, the very nature of those tiny particles means they can hold onto water and nutrients and are great for plant growth. A wide range of plants, including roses, relish improved, fertile clay soils and if you switch, as I have, from impoverished sand to silty clay, you will certainly see a difference in growth rates.

Tips for gardening on clay
- If you need to access heavy clay soil or are standing on a lawn edge, use boards to spread the weight.
- Improve drainage for crops like garlic by planting into ridges made above soil level. This is especially useful for winter crops and early plantings because the roots are raised out of the coldest, soggiest part of the soil.
- To dry a cold, wet, heavy soil early in the year prior to planting and sowing, cover with plastic sheeting. Alkathene piping fixed over beds in hoops will raise the plastic off the soil to keep rain off but will allow air in to dry and warm the soil.
- Drying soil by covering is easier when the beds are only 4 feet or so wide and slightly raised above the surrounding level.

Tips for Gardening on Sandy Soil

The large particles making up sandy soils refuse to bond together into a good crumb structure, and this means they lose water quickly and don’t hold onto nutrients well. But gardening on a light, sandy soil is not all bad. These soils warm up quickly in spring and you can tread, fork, and dig them on virtually any day of the year. Improvements include adding lots of organic matter, but you’ll find this disappears quickly. There are plenty of plants more than happy to grow on well-drained soils, including many of Mediterranean origin. Herbs such as lavender, thyme, and rosemary will be much happier on sand than a sticky clay. Plants of dubious hardiness will come through hard winters much better with drier roots and survive on sands when they would have rotted away on damp clays.
Tips for gardening on sandy soil
- A good way of conserving water in sandy areas is to mulch beds with a layer of shingly stones. Start by digging and enriching your flower bed with plenty of humus. Choose a good range of drought-tolerant plants and plant them slightly above the soil. Water thoroughly and mulch with a 3-4-inch layer of shingly stones (not too fine). The stones will help to keep out the weeds and protect the soil from evaporation.


Preparing Ground and Soil for your Garden

How to Prepare the Soil

Of all garden tasks, soil preparation is probably the most important. This includes adding vital nutrients and hummus, in the form of compost and manure, to the soil to replace that used up the previous year.

Well, rotted compost adds nutrients and texture to the soil. It can be incorporated as the soil is being dug. Dig out one spade full of earth and place some compost in the trench that has been formed. Dig out the next spade full, placing it on top of the compost. Put more compost in the new trench and continue until the whole plot has been dug.

Rotating crops helps to get the best from the soil and keeps down pests and diseases. A rough sketch is essential so that space is provided for all the crops that you want to grow.

Cover crops are planted in idle gardens to protect them from soil erosion. Most often they are green manure crops that are turned into the soil just before the gardening season begins again.

Some crops serve more than one purpose. Buckwheat, for example, is often used as green manure, but it also attracts garden hoverflies, which feed on aphids and black flies and thus helps to keep the populations of these pests under control.

Any organic, non-animal waste from the kitchen, particularly peelings and cores, can be used on the compost heap.

Even old tea bags can be used. Beware of including animal waste, in particular, meat, as this may attract rats and other vermin.

Compost is one of the most valuable garden soil conditioners - and it is free. Any material from the garden that will decompose can be used. The addition of some farmyard manure will help speed up the process and will add to its value. If possible have more than one bin, as it is a good idea to be adding material to one while taking the finished compost from the other.

Cleaning and Preparing the Ground

When faced with a new or neglected piece of ground, there is a strong temptation to go at it as fast as one can to get it planted and in production. This can spell disaster since the ground is bound to be full of weeds. Time spent during the first season cleaning and thoroughly preparing the soil will certainly bear dividends in the long term. Although this is true for both vegetable and flower borders, it is the flower borders that need particular attention, since once planted you may not want to disturb them for many years. Vegetables are dug over every year, giving you opportunities to discover and dig out weeds missed earlier.

There is no better way of preparing the ground than by hand digging it over and then hand weeding to remove all the perennial weeds as you go.

Once the ground has been dug it can be left to allow annual weeds to germinate. These can be hosed off at regular intervals. However, many gardeners would find that leaving the ground fallow is a waste of a valuable natural resource. There are certain crops which are ideal to grow in weedy ground that has recently been dug up. Potatoes and brassicas (vegetables in the cabbage family) are two such crops that are regularly used by gardeners in such situations.

They both have advantages above and below ground. Below ground, the extensive and, in the case of the cabbages, deep and strong roots help break up the new ground. The deeper rooted they are, the better. Another advantage with cabbages is that it is easy to hoe right up to the plants, something which it is difficult to do with, for example, a row of carrots. Any’ weeds can be removed and the ground kept in good condition, encouraging other weed seeds to grow so that by the end of the season the number of seeds waiting to germinate in the soil has been drastically diminished. Growing potatoes is beneficial in a similar way, except where the soil is kept disturbed as the rows are earthed up. A large amount of foliage also helps kill off struggling weeds.

There are other plants with strong taproots which help to break up the lower levels of the soil and bring nutrients up to the surface where they can be more readily used by the next season’s crops.


Clearing a Garden’s Site with Machinery

An appealing alternative to digging by hand, particularly on larger sites, is to rent machinery. Although it will increase costs, it will speed up site clearance, save energy, and be great fun-as well as being invaluable for heavy work such as breaking concrete. “Mini” machines, including diggers, dumpers, tractors and their accessories, are perfect for small-scale landscaping. Before hiring, check the width of the access to save embarrassment!
Find out the location and depth of services-electricity and water-which may run across your garden, and keep details of your findings. You can rent tools designed for this purpose; though be sure to use them according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If necessary, contact the relevant authorities to obtain a plan of the site. To avoid damage to other areas of the garden, mark the machines’ route across the plot using brightly painted canes with rags attached to the top, or to the twine between them. Indicate the relevant depths of cables or pipes on temporary signs as a useful reminder. Beware of using large machinery under low power cables; if in doubt, hire an experienced operator to do the job for you, but make sure they know which features are to remain by marking them clearly. Once all the major ground clearance is complete, plough or till the site to break up compacted soil, particularly on heavy ground, incorporating soil conditioners if necessary. Take care to avoid bringing any subsoil to the surface when digging or rotavating.